Before you ride...
Many people stop cycling (or find it difficult to start) because of bikes that are too large, too small, or that work poorly—sloppy or inoperative shifting, poor braking (or missing brake cables) and other factors. It’s important to not buy a bike to 'grow into', or to use a bike that is in poor working order (perhaps planning to get a better bike later). Doing so can discourage a rider and pose a very real safety risk to the cyclist and to others. Bicycles are vehicles that must work properly, and they must be properly maintained. Investing in, and maintaining, the right bike can lead to a lifetime of healthy and enjoyable cycling!
To check your bike thoroughly for safety, start at the front of the bike and work back. Not all of these checks will need to be made before each ride, but some checks are necessary for each ride; for the others, it’s important they be checked regularly. Not sure about an item? Ask staff at your local bike shop for tips.
Wheels straight and spokes tight?
Spin the wheels (front and back) to make sure they don't wobble.
· Look at the spokes; replace any broken spokes before riding.
· Check all spokes for tightness by squeezing together each pair that crosses one
another. You’ll need to do this on both sides of the front and back wheel.
· Recheck any time the wheel takes a hard hit, such as a pothole or curb.
Wheels on tight?
Be sure that the axle nuts or 'quick release' mechanisms are tight and holding both the front and rear wheel on securely.
· Quick release levers should be tight and in line with the fork (front) and frame (back); levers should curve inward, toward the frame or fork.
Brakes tight?
· Pull in hard on both brake levers. There should be at least one to two fingers of space between the levers and the handlebar.
· The brake levers should move in at least 1/3 to 1/2 inch (1 to 2 cm) before engaging the brakes fully. This allows for more controlled braking (rather than off/on).
Tire pressure okay?
Check that both the front and back tires have the right amount of air.
· Pinch the tire with your thumb and index finger. If you can push it in, it's too soft for most riding.
· Check the sidewall of the tire for the proper pressure range. Be careful filling tires at gas stations—their high volume can easily explode a bike tire.
· If you're riding on gravel or dirt, you'll want less air to help with traction and for cushioning your ride. For riding on the road, use higher pressure.
· The valve stem on each tire should be sticking straight out of the rim. If it's at an angle, the rim can cut the valve, causing an instant flat and ruining the tube. Deflate the tire, rotate the tire and tube in the proper direction, then re-inflate it.
Brakes pads aligned?
Holding in one brake lever at a time, check where the brake pads touch the rim.
· The pads should be in line with the rim (not at an angle), and should not be either hanging off the rim, or rubbing against the tire.
· If the grooves in the brake pads are worn off, or the pads are thin, they must be
replaced (leaving this too long can lead to metal in the pads scraping the rims).
Handlebars tight?
This is an important check that few people perform.
· Facing the front of the bike, hold the front wheel tightly between your knees, and with your feet on either side of the tire.
· Now try twisting the handlebar from side to side. It might flex a little (especially if you have suspension forks) but it shouldn't move out of alignment.
Seat secure?
· Grab the seat and try twisting it side to side, and backward & forward. It should not
rotate. (Always use reasonable, and not excessive, force.)
· Note: Suspension seatposts will always have some movement side to side.
Chain clean and lubricated?
The chain should have enough lubricant to allow free movement and prevent rust, but
should not be overly lubricated.
· If it's dry, put on some lubricant. If it's dirty or too oily, clean and re-lubricate it.
· Be sure to wipe off any excess lubricant with a rag.
· Cleaning the gears is important, as well (they do not need lubrication).
The Final Check:
· Stand back and look at the bike. Does anything look loose or likely to get in the way of operating the bike? e.g., locks over the handlebars or around the seat-post—these can swing into the spokes or get caught in the brakes. Check the rider for hazards (don't wear a backpack with the straps undone, or wrap a jacket around the waist).
· Pick the bike up a few inches and drop it: listen and look for rattles or moving parts that need to be secured. The only part that should move is the 'derailleur'—the part that takes up the slack in the chain and shifts the gears on the back wheel. Move the shifter on the right side of the handlebar to see this part move side to side, and you'll have located it.
Before Each Ride:
· Check tire pressure and brakes, and check the bike & rider for items that might cause a hazard. Squeezing the brake levers before getting on the bike keeps the bike stable, and confirms that the brakes are working.
Protect your head!
A helmet is only meant to be a last resort for safety. It does not replace safe riding skills, a safe bike, and supervision where necessary. Wear a helmet, but ride as though you weren't wearing one.
Quick checklist:
Make sure that your helmet...
· is the right size for you
· is meant for the kind of riding you’re doing
· is level when done up
· has its straps adjusted properly (snug and lying flat)
· is treated carefully, and has not been damaged
· is comfortable
A poorly-adjusted or damaged helmet might provide some protection, but will it be enough?
Buying a Helmet
· Ensure that the helmet is certified. Look for a small sticker on the inside that reads ‘CPSC’ (United
States, Canada) or ‘CSA’ (Canada).
· If you let your child pick out his or her helmet, there's a much greater likelihood that it will be worn.
· The helmet must fit now, and not be 'grown into'. Be sure it is worn always, and ensure that you are a
good role model for your child/ren (and others) by wearing your helmet each time you ride.
· Price isn't the best indicator of safety. Higher-priced helmets generally weigh less, have more
ventilation, and a ore easily-adjusted/comfortable strap system, but aren't necessarily safer.
· Avoid buying or using a skateboard-style helmet. Their straps angle in from the edge of the helmet,
rather than lying flat against the face. These strap systems do not allow proper tightening, and the
helmets are designed for different impacts than those usually encountered while cycling. Also, avoid
buying a full-face helmet if the rider will be riding on roads or pathways. Most models restrict vision
and hearing, are quite heavy, and have little ventilation.
· Don't accept a used helmet for you or for your child, or give an old helmet away. If it's not safe for you
or your child, it's not fit for anyone else to wear.
Replacing a Helmet
· Replace your helmet every three to five years, or after it has been in an impact (either from a collision,
or from falling from any height, such as from a shelf). Children’s helmets should be replaced more
often, as they get outgrown and are generally subject to more damage through handling.
Adjusting and Wearing the Helmet
· Hold the helmet upside down, with the front (visor) facing towards you.
· Straighten out the straps.
· Hold the straps in place with your thumbs.
· Put the helmet on and make sure its level.
· Check that helmet is the right size:
— Most helmets have an adjusting mechanism at the back (i.e., at the top of the neck); this may need
to be loosened or tightened to make a proper fit before going on to the next steps.
— Grasp the top of the helmet and gently twist side to side to be sure it's snug enough.
— If it's too loose, it either needs padding added (one layer only), or is too large.
— Next, try putting a finger between the helmet and your forehead; there shouldn't be any more
space than the width of a finger tip. If there’s too much space, the helmet is too large.
— If the inside of the helmet doesn't come down close to the scalp, or pinches, it's too small.
· Adjust the straps to make sure they are lying flat against your face.
· The straps should form a 'V' around the ears, with the clasps coming just below the ear lobes.
— If the clasps or sliders are too high or low, move them to the proper position.
· Buckle up the strap; when it's done up, it should rest against the underside of the chin.
Checking for Fit
After doing up the straps, try these checks to be certain that the helmet is secure (see picture below):
A — There should only be room for one or two fingers under the chin strap when it's done up.
B — The clasps should be just below the ears.
C — The front of the helmet should be low enough that there is only one or two fingers’ width between the
eyebrows and the helmet.
D — There should be no more than a finger's space between the forehead and the helmet. With one
hand, try gently lifting the front of the helmet up and backward. Then try lifting the back of the helmet
up and forward. Grasp the top of the helmet with your hand. Gently try rocking it from side to side,
and twist it around. Movement should be minimal.
If the helmet doesn't look or feel secure, try these adjustments:
Situation - Helmet can move too far forward when the back is lifted up
Solution - Tighten the back straps (the ones behind the ears).
Situation - Helmet can move too far back when the front is lifted up
Solution - Tighten the front straps (the ones in front of the ears).
Situation - With straps undone, helmet rocks side to side, or turns more than an inch to either side when twisted gently from the top.
Solution - This indicates that the helmet is too big. A properly fitting helmet must be chosen.
